I started modular in 2007, with a doepfer A-100 G6 - 6U.
I'm the kind of person who needs to hold an object in my hands to fully understand how it's made and what components go into it.
Looking at it in detail, I realized that you could easily make your own box out of wood, whereas it's more difficult for an individual to make an aluminum one, as you need specific tools.
To begin with, you need to choose the format of the modules you want. Choosing a module format will determine the height of the row of modules.
These links can help you find your way around the different formats:
Next, you need to choose the length of the rails (hence the length of the box) and build the box around them.
And then, of course, you need to size the power supply according to the number of modules, and distribute it to the modules...
These lengths are generally used, but anything is possible :)
84 hp = 427 mm // 104 hp = 529 mm // 110 hp = 559 mm // 126 hp = 640 mm // 168 hp = 854 mm
I drew my box with freecad: Freecad
But it also works with a paper plan :)
You're free to design the box you want, but be careful if you want a particular shape. In this case, you'll have to use a CNC milling machine, as the angles are difficult to make with ordinary hand-held power tools.
Of course, it's much easier with a rectangle box :)
The native Freecad files are in the folder: Freecad Files
Here's a screenshot of the box I wanted to make.
Dimensioned drawings are essential for cutting. If you give them to a carpenter, he'll need them too...
In our case, we used a CNC, but for a simpler shape, all you need is a circular saw or even a jigsaw, and why not a handsaw :)
It all depends on the final look you want to achieve ^^.
I chose a 12 mm thick birch plywood panel, 61 cm wide and 122 cm long.
With hindsight, I find that 12 mm thick is a little too heavy, 10 mm would be more than sufficient.
It's also possible to experiment with even thinner wood to save weight, especially if the synthesizer is frequently moved...
Find a cnc ... in a fablab for example :)
Map of fablabs: Fablab
- Rails purchased from: but there are also many online suppliers. clicksclocks
- There are 2 different rail profiles, the newer ones (top) are shallower, but this has no effect.
- The rails are easy to attach to the sides, as the CNC has drilled the holes in the right place :)
There are several types of screws used, depending on the brand of rail manufacturer.
The one on the left is countersunk, M5 x 20 with a hollow hexagon socket.
The other has a domed head with a pitch unknown to me, and length 25, which is probably a screw dedicated to aluminum...
Both work, the advantage of the countersunk head is that it doesn't protrude beyond the wooden side.
- The assembled rack, sorry the picture is a bit blurry
- You may notice that I've used rails with different module screwing systems.
One solution is a continuous nut/threaded insert M3 rail.
The other is M3 square nuts that are slid into the rail.
And I prefer threaded because it's hard to find the nuts behind the modules, sometimes there are too many on one side, and you have to remove the modules to get them on the other side, etc.
But that's just my opinion :)
Next, you'll need to cut the cleats that will ensure the rigidity of the cabinet, and while you're at it, they'll support the bottom plate with the power supply placed on top.
Their cross-section must be at least 20 x 20 mm to ensure rigidity.
Setting up modules to align everything before final tightening of rails and cleats
Bottom plate with power supply on top
In the computer power supply box is the 220V transformer.
In red is the power supply board, which supplies +/-12V (1A) and +/-15V (4A).
Eurorack power busses are those of David Haillant
The ones on a strip-pasted plate that I re-tinned to reinforce the tin track with a copper wire core, this is my +/-15V ditribution bus, yes I know it's roots ^^
In white it's a separate power supply (otherwise it's batteries ...) which is used to have 2 ammeters one to measure the current in ± 12 and the other the ±15V.
Diagram: pjmnc
Power supply from the rear
I added a cap with a ribbon of leds to make it look nice :)
And I also took advantage of the laser engraver to put a Saturn on the front.
Bus board from David Haillant
Bus connector from Reichelt
Manufacture of power cables for Eurorack modules : Tuto on youtube
16-pin connector, but I also use 10-pin because some modules use this format.
Connector from Reichelt
Tool from Reichelt
Tool from Farnell
You can even make your own cardboard box Musicradar
Nathan Thompson and Andrew from Non Linear Circuits even offers open-source plans for making your own cabinet using a laser cutter or CNC: Thingiverse