From a7fc5d98486c57c63012fcfcf8a59bceb21d9471 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:12:51 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 1/9] Firmware Information added Brief overview of "What's in this folder?". And some information that should help those who are new to Arduino. --- FW/README.md | 12 ++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 12 insertions(+) diff --git a/FW/README.md b/FW/README.md index e69de29..4811d63 100644 --- a/FW/README.md +++ b/FW/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,12 @@ +## Firmware for the 3Dsimo KIT + +In this (sub-)folder you can find the source files (Arduino "sketches") to update and modify the code of the 3Dsimo KIT pen. + +### Firmware Flashing Guide + +[Here is a step by step guide that explains how to set up the Arduino IDE with 3Dsimo KIT](https://github.com/3dsimo/3dsimo_kit/blob/master/documents/pdf/HW_FW_manualEN.pdf). +The data on the 3Dsimo KIT will be overwritten in the flashing process. But you can always do a "factory reset" by uploading the code from the subfolder 3dsimo_kit/FW/3DsimoKit/ to your pen. + +You will need: +- [Download Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) +- [One of those .ino files](https://github.com/3dsimo/3dsimo_kit/tree/master/FW/3DsimoKit) From 635d580faac2c46582c5c71f63d5a653715e2c01 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:25:41 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 2/9] Added 3D models folder link --- documents/3Dprint.md | 3 +++ 1 file changed, 3 insertions(+) diff --git a/documents/3Dprint.md b/documents/3Dprint.md index d61250a..0402f48 100644 --- a/documents/3Dprint.md +++ b/documents/3Dprint.md @@ -1,2 +1,5 @@ # 3D print Plastic parts of 3Dsimo KIT are printed on FDM printers and can be easily swapped. We intend to add new parts and new designs all the time. All 3D models are of course available, so you can modify them as you please. IF you have an interesting model don't hesitate to share it with us. + +### 3D models folder +You can find all 3D models of the parts in [this Folder: 3dsimo_kit/3Dmodels/](../3Dmodels/) From 432fb04c2191265a64e67fbb0c4e75993b2d535e Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:43:14 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 3/9] Added links and tips --- documents/MaterialProfiles.md | 5 +++++ 1 file changed, 5 insertions(+) diff --git a/documents/MaterialProfiles.md b/documents/MaterialProfiles.md index 8bb003b..992eab2 100644 --- a/documents/MaterialProfiles.md +++ b/documents/MaterialProfiles.md @@ -1,2 +1,7 @@ # Material profiles 3Dsimo KIT already contains profiles for ABS and PLA of the box, but thanks to its nature, it can handle other materials easily as well. You can even add them yourself by changing our available code and adding your own material profiles. + +### Getting started +- [Here is a step by step guide to connect the Arduino IDE with your 3Dsimo KIT](pdf/HW_FW_manualEN.pdf) +- [Here you can download the Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) +- [And here you can find the code (Arduino "sketch") to upload to your 3Dsimo KIT pen.](https://github.com/AnTi-ArT/3dsimo_kit/tree/patch-1/FW) You can pick one (eg the newest) file from the subfolder 3DsimoKit. The place to add new material profiles is near the lines 50~60. Also, make sure to adjust #define MATERIAL_COUNT according to your edited materials array. From 0f33cf33add641ac4128d127951f907bdd7b3cc4 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2018 13:45:02 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 4/9] Made the links relative... --- FW/README.md | 4 ++-- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) diff --git a/FW/README.md b/FW/README.md index 4811d63..3360797 100644 --- a/FW/README.md +++ b/FW/README.md @@ -4,9 +4,9 @@ In this (sub-)folder you can find the source files (Arduino "sketches") to updat ### Firmware Flashing Guide -[Here is a step by step guide that explains how to set up the Arduino IDE with 3Dsimo KIT](https://github.com/3dsimo/3dsimo_kit/blob/master/documents/pdf/HW_FW_manualEN.pdf). +[Here is a step by step guide that explains how to set up the Arduino IDE with 3Dsimo KIT](../documents/pdf/HW_FW_manualEN.pdf). The data on the 3Dsimo KIT will be overwritten in the flashing process. But you can always do a "factory reset" by uploading the code from the subfolder 3dsimo_kit/FW/3DsimoKit/ to your pen. You will need: - [Download Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) -- [One of those .ino files](https://github.com/3dsimo/3dsimo_kit/tree/master/FW/3DsimoKit) +- [One of those .ino files](../FW/3DsimoKit) From c9a2b61c58fe91fb674d691fa11106083a8104a7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2018 11:29:04 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 5/9] Suggestion: put _JC3D file in it's own subfolder. Arduino IDE does not like them in one folder (e.g. if one clones the whole repo). That also explaines the "3DsimoKit" subfolder in FW. This is the one the IDE created... The structure would be less prone to errors like: - FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino - FW/3DsimoKit_JC3D/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino - FW/3DsimoKit_anotherNewFW/3DsimoKit_anotherNewFW.ino .... and so on... I wrote a quick tip to the README for anyone else getting an error after downloading the whole repo and trying to use one of the files. --- FW/README.md | 3 +++ 1 file changed, 3 insertions(+) diff --git a/FW/README.md b/FW/README.md index 3360797..944cbf9 100644 --- a/FW/README.md +++ b/FW/README.md @@ -10,3 +10,6 @@ The data on the 3Dsimo KIT will be overwritten in the flashing process. But you You will need: - [Download Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) - [One of those .ino files](../FW/3DsimoKit) + +### Troubleshooting +- Redeclaration and definiton errors: don't save multiple ino files in one folder. The simplest way to update/change the firmware is to make a new sketch in the Arduino IDE and copy and paste the code from one of the files from Github, then save locally, then upload. From d2f833878e759870ffe9ca0b56d4504e05aae976 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: AnTi-ArT Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2018 23:12:57 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 6/9] typos in the comments - Stopped those assing functions from assing around. :-D - corrected name of ssd1306 author to Dynda --- FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino | 2 +- FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino | 4 ++-- 2 files changed, 3 insertions(+), 3 deletions(-) diff --git a/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino b/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino index c13909b..d59408c 100644 --- a/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino +++ b/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit.ino @@ -262,7 +262,7 @@ void timerAction(){ } } - // assing functions according to heating state (mainly button function) + // assign functions according to heating state (mainly button function) switch(statusHeating){ case STATE_COOLING: case STATE_READY:{ diff --git a/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino b/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino index 1e734f0..edf499c 100644 --- a/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino +++ b/FW/3DsimoKit/3DsimoKit_JC3D.ino @@ -1,5 +1,5 @@ /* - * ssd1306 128x32 Alexey Dinda Library + * ssd1306 128x32 Alexey Dynda Library */ #include "ssd1306.h" #include "nano_gfx.h" @@ -267,7 +267,7 @@ void timerAction(){ } } - // assing functions according to heating state (mainly button function) + // assign functions according to heating state (mainly button function) switch(statusHeating){ case STATE_COOLING: case STATE_READY:{ From 1e2f778441a3bea5807ded8c3516e7455e47a2fd Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 00:39:49 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 7/9] initial draft, not proof read yet. Especially meant for beginners who never used any 3D pen before. Just what came to my mind. It's late... --- documents/TippsTricks.md | 43 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 43 insertions(+) create mode 100644 documents/TippsTricks.md diff --git a/documents/TippsTricks.md b/documents/TippsTricks.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4de717a --- /dev/null +++ b/documents/TippsTricks.md @@ -0,0 +1,43 @@ +# Tipps and Tricks + +## 3Dsimo Kit Assembly Tipps +- It should be possible to assemble the 3Dsimo KIT pen "out of the box". +But it is still a good idea to have some tools nearby: cutter knife, soldering iron, insulating tape, small screw driver +- First read the instructions to visualize the process +- Before you start the assembly inspect and test the interlocking parts like the nozzle cover and the space for the motor. Try to fit them togehter and if you notice blocks then clean up the parts until they fit without force: + - e.g. you might need to bend the contacts of the motor more to the side. the bottom of the motor should rest loosely on the contact of the screen + - take extra care with the nozzle parts and the body cover. Look if the leads and contacts on the nozzle are flat enough to fit in the grove +- The nozzle cover has distinct up- and down-sides. If your cover does not line up with the rest of the body: rotate 180° +- Check from time to time if all boards are still nicely connected to each other. + + +## General 3D drawing Tipps +- Rest your thumb on the Extrude-Button. It is easier to operate it with the thumb, instead of the index finger. +- If some buttons behave very glitchy: Try to press them without touching the Nano pins on the bottom of the pen. If they annoy you: cover them with insulating tape. +- The are different firmwares available for right- and left-handed use +### Filament loading and ejecting +- ALWAYS use filament with an even tip! Cut your strand to get one. +- Let the pen heat up, then feed in the 1.75mm filament. It takes a bit of time to travel through the whole pen. Touch the filament to confirm, that the motor is wired the right way. Then you can gently(!) push the filament strand in. +- Eject filament: Hit the Revert button and wait until the filament gets ejected. You can slightly pull the strand out. You might need to hit the button a second time. You will notice the strand getting loose, pull it out now. The tip of the filament strand is now molten and uneven. Cut it clean and even. +- Changing filament color: it is normal that some filament stays in the nozzle. If you change the color you will see a slow gradient from the the old to the new color. If you change the type of filament make sure to set the temperature correctly to melt the old filament first. +- Avoid to let the end of your filament string to go fully into the pen. If the motor looses grip you need to disassemble the pen to remove the filament. Never just stick another strand in! +- If your pen gets clogged: Disassemble (careful, might be hot!), get some thin scissors to cut the filament inside the pen and to disassemble further. Remove all filament strands and cut it close to the nozzle. It is normal for the rest of the filament to stay inside the nozzle. +- Place your roll of filament in a way that allows easy feeding. Make sure it does not get tight or tangled. Some people wrap it around their arm... +### Drawing tipps +- Take your time to get a feeling for your pen and your material. Temperature and speed both change the behaviour of the material. +- With a low temperature and a steady hand you can actually draw in the air. +- It is, of course, easier to built up your shapes or to assemble single pieces. +- You will probably need a surface to draw on. Try to find one, where the filament sticks well. You can also use clear tape as a basic surface. +- You can use a transparent surface to draw "on" a sketch or template. +- Filament will be extruded as long as you hold the extrude button. Release the button to stop the flow. +- After you release the extrude button the motor will pull back the filament into the pen. This helps to prevent strings and hairs of material after every stroke. Make sure to hold the pen at the end of each stroke. If you pull it away before releasing the button, you will pull the material along, creating thin "hairs". +- Depending on your type of filament you might need multiple layers for a solid and stable piece +- There are a couple of techniques to build up shapes: + - Draw flat, 2D forms and connect them at tbe sides + - Build up Layers and walls. To save material you can also build up walls and ridges and then "Fill" them in the air. Generally it is easiest to "ground" a line of material on already existing material. + - Drawing lines in the air + - Use a base shape to draw on. You can cover it with clear tape for a better grip. Make sure the material of the base is fairly heat resistant. +- The filament cools down fairly fast after extrusion. With a bit of practice you can correct and bent it before it cools down completely. +- After you finish your piece of art, you probably need scissors or a clipper to remove thin hairs of filament. Get used to them, it's impossible to avoid it completely. +- Depending on your type of material you might be able to melt, bend and shape it with a hot hair dryer. e.g. you can draw a flat rectangle and bend it into a ring. +- Depending on your material you might also be able to file, clip, cut or polish the piece. Careful: Some type of filament tends to break. From d48ce3cfe5b98b56ec964f3a1fe4ad1f72330f9d Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2018 01:04:20 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 8/9] some proof reading and editing --- documents/TippsTricks.md | 46 ++++++++++++++++++++++------------------ 1 file changed, 25 insertions(+), 21 deletions(-) diff --git a/documents/TippsTricks.md b/documents/TippsTricks.md index 4de717a..6696d7b 100644 --- a/documents/TippsTricks.md +++ b/documents/TippsTricks.md @@ -2,42 +2,46 @@ ## 3Dsimo Kit Assembly Tipps - It should be possible to assemble the 3Dsimo KIT pen "out of the box". -But it is still a good idea to have some tools nearby: cutter knife, soldering iron, insulating tape, small screw driver -- First read the instructions to visualize the process -- Before you start the assembly inspect and test the interlocking parts like the nozzle cover and the space for the motor. Try to fit them togehter and if you notice blocks then clean up the parts until they fit without force: - - e.g. you might need to bend the contacts of the motor more to the side. the bottom of the motor should rest loosely on the contact of the screen - - take extra care with the nozzle parts and the body cover. Look if the leads and contacts on the nozzle are flat enough to fit in the grove -- The nozzle cover has distinct up- and down-sides. If your cover does not line up with the rest of the body: rotate 180° +But it is still a good idea to have some tools nearby: cutter knife, soldering iron, insulating tape, small screw driver. +- First read the entire instructions to visualize the process. +- Before you start the assembly: Inspect and test the interlocking parts like the nozzle cover and the space for the motor. Try to fit them together one by one and if you notice blocks then clean up the parts until they fit without force: + - e.g. You might need to bend the contacts of the motor more to the side. The bottom of the motor should rest loosely on the contact of the screen. + - Take extra care with the nozzle parts and the body cover. Look if the leads and contacts on the nozzle are flat enough to fit in the grove. +- The nozzle cover has distinct up- and down-sides. If your cover does not line up with the rest of the body: rotate 180°. +- The nozzle itself can slide forward and backward on the contacts. Adjust it for best fit. You probably need to bend the contacts slightly until they line up good. - Check from time to time if all boards are still nicely connected to each other. +- If your motor moves the wrong way: Rotate the plug. ## General 3D drawing Tipps - Rest your thumb on the Extrude-Button. It is easier to operate it with the thumb, instead of the index finger. -- If some buttons behave very glitchy: Try to press them without touching the Nano pins on the bottom of the pen. If they annoy you: cover them with insulating tape. -- The are different firmwares available for right- and left-handed use +- If some buttons behave very glitchy: Try to press them without touching the Nano pins on the bottom of the pen. If the pins annoy you: cover them with insulating tape. +- There are different firmwares available for right- and left-handed use. ### Filament loading and ejecting - ALWAYS use filament with an even tip! Cut your strand to get one. -- Let the pen heat up, then feed in the 1.75mm filament. It takes a bit of time to travel through the whole pen. Touch the filament to confirm, that the motor is wired the right way. Then you can gently(!) push the filament strand in. -- Eject filament: Hit the Revert button and wait until the filament gets ejected. You can slightly pull the strand out. You might need to hit the button a second time. You will notice the strand getting loose, pull it out now. The tip of the filament strand is now molten and uneven. Cut it clean and even. -- Changing filament color: it is normal that some filament stays in the nozzle. If you change the color you will see a slow gradient from the the old to the new color. If you change the type of filament make sure to set the temperature correctly to melt the old filament first. +- You don't neccessarily need straightened filament. The bend, however, can make the loading process a bit harder. +- Let the pen heat up, then feed in the 1.75mm filament. It takes a bit of time to travel through the whole pen. Touch the filament to confirm that the motor is wired the right way. Then you can gently(!) push the filament strand in. Push until the motor grips the strand and then you can stop poushing (or push only slightly). +- Ejecting filament: Hit the Revert button and wait until the filament gets ejected. You can slightly pull the strand out. You might need to hit the button a second time. You will notice the strand getting loose, pull it out now. The tip of the filament strand is now molten and uneven. Cut it clean and right angled. +- Changing filament color: It is normal that some filament stays in the nozzle. If you change the color you will see a slow gradient from the the old to the new color. If you change the type of filament make sure to set the temperature correctly to melt the old filament first. - Avoid to let the end of your filament string to go fully into the pen. If the motor looses grip you need to disassemble the pen to remove the filament. Never just stick another strand in! -- If your pen gets clogged: Disassemble (careful, might be hot!), get some thin scissors to cut the filament inside the pen and to disassemble further. Remove all filament strands and cut it close to the nozzle. It is normal for the rest of the filament to stay inside the nozzle. +- If your pen gets clogged: Disassemble (carefully, might be hot!), get some thin scissors to cut the filament inside the pen where it is exposed. Disassemble further. Remove all filament strands and cut it close to the nozzle. It is normal for the rest of the filament to stay inside the nozzle. - Place your roll of filament in a way that allows easy feeding. Make sure it does not get tight or tangled. Some people wrap it around their arm... +- It is possible for small amounts of filament to come out of the tip, even when the pen is idle. Make sure to cover the surface under your pen. If a lot of material comes out during idle: Lowering the temperature might help. ### Drawing tipps - Take your time to get a feeling for your pen and your material. Temperature and speed both change the behaviour of the material. - With a low temperature and a steady hand you can actually draw in the air. -- It is, of course, easier to built up your shapes or to assemble single pieces. +- It is, of course, easier to build up your shapes or to assemble single pieces. - You will probably need a surface to draw on. Try to find one, where the filament sticks well. You can also use clear tape as a basic surface. - You can use a transparent surface to draw "on" a sketch or template. -- Filament will be extruded as long as you hold the extrude button. Release the button to stop the flow. +- Filament will be extruded as long as you hold the extrude button. Release the button to stop the flow. Release the button between two strokes that are not supposed to be connected. - After you release the extrude button the motor will pull back the filament into the pen. This helps to prevent strings and hairs of material after every stroke. Make sure to hold the pen at the end of each stroke. If you pull it away before releasing the button, you will pull the material along, creating thin "hairs". -- Depending on your type of filament you might need multiple layers for a solid and stable piece +- Depending on your type of filament you might need multiple layers for a solid and stable shape. - There are a couple of techniques to build up shapes: - - Draw flat, 2D forms and connect them at tbe sides - - Build up Layers and walls. To save material you can also build up walls and ridges and then "Fill" them in the air. Generally it is easiest to "ground" a line of material on already existing material. - - Drawing lines in the air - - Use a base shape to draw on. You can cover it with clear tape for a better grip. Make sure the material of the base is fairly heat resistant. -- The filament cools down fairly fast after extrusion. With a bit of practice you can correct and bent it before it cools down completely. -- After you finish your piece of art, you probably need scissors or a clipper to remove thin hairs of filament. Get used to them, it's impossible to avoid it completely. + - Draw flat 2D forms and connect them at tbe sides. + - Build up layers and walls. To save material you can also build up walls and ridges and then "fill" them in the air. Generally it is easiest to "ground" a line of material on already existing material. + - Slowly drawing lines in the air. + - Use a base shape to draw on. You can cover it with clear tape for a better grip. Make sure the material of the base is heat resistant. +- The filament cools down fairly fast after extrusion. With a bit of practice you can correct and bend it before it cools down completely. +- After you finish your piece of art, you probably need scissors or a clipper to remove thin hairs of filament. Get used to them, it's hard to avoid it completely. - Depending on your type of material you might be able to melt, bend and shape it with a hot hair dryer. e.g. you can draw a flat rectangle and bend it into a ring. - Depending on your material you might also be able to file, clip, cut or polish the piece. Careful: Some type of filament tends to break. From a13888e77a5d766e54407a186e5a0b203e225ed1 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Anna Timm Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2018 14:09:23 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 9/9] Some links to the shop. Some more tipps --- documents/TippsTricks.md | 11 +++++++---- 1 file changed, 7 insertions(+), 4 deletions(-) diff --git a/documents/TippsTricks.md b/documents/TippsTricks.md index 6696d7b..7f20e6a 100644 --- a/documents/TippsTricks.md +++ b/documents/TippsTricks.md @@ -30,9 +30,12 @@ But it is still a good idea to have some tools nearby: cutter knife, soldering i ### Drawing tipps - Take your time to get a feeling for your pen and your material. Temperature and speed both change the behaviour of the material. - With a low temperature and a steady hand you can actually draw in the air. -- It is, of course, easier to build up your shapes or to assemble single pieces. -- You will probably need a surface to draw on. Try to find one, where the filament sticks well. You can also use clear tape as a basic surface. -- You can use a transparent surface to draw "on" a sketch or template. +- ... it is, of course, easier to build up your shapes or to assemble single pieces. +- You will probably need a surface to draw on. [You can find a perfect Drawing Pad in the 3Dsimo Shop](https://3dsimo.com/eshop/kit/accessories/drawing-pad). As a makeshift surface for doodling you can even use paper, cardboard or something covered with adhesive tape. Just don't use anything that melts in high temperatures... +- You can use a transparent surface to draw "on" a sketch or template below. +- You can also use common household-items covered in adhesive tape as a base for a shape. +- [3Dsimo offers a Silicone Pad that helps you to draw perfect circles and lines.](https://3dsimo.com/eshop/kit/accessories/silicone-drawing-pad) +- When drawing curves it is sometimes easier to rotate the surface, instead of rotating your pen and arm. - Filament will be extruded as long as you hold the extrude button. Release the button to stop the flow. Release the button between two strokes that are not supposed to be connected. - After you release the extrude button the motor will pull back the filament into the pen. This helps to prevent strings and hairs of material after every stroke. Make sure to hold the pen at the end of each stroke. If you pull it away before releasing the button, you will pull the material along, creating thin "hairs". - Depending on your type of filament you might need multiple layers for a solid and stable shape. @@ -42,6 +45,6 @@ But it is still a good idea to have some tools nearby: cutter knife, soldering i - Slowly drawing lines in the air. - Use a base shape to draw on. You can cover it with clear tape for a better grip. Make sure the material of the base is heat resistant. - The filament cools down fairly fast after extrusion. With a bit of practice you can correct and bend it before it cools down completely. -- After you finish your piece of art, you probably need scissors or a clipper to remove thin hairs of filament. Get used to them, it's hard to avoid it completely. +- After you finish your piece of art, you probably need scissors or a clipper to remove thin hairs of filament. Get used to them, it's hard to avoid it completely. Alternatively you can hold the hot tip to the filament hairs to melt them away. - Depending on your type of material you might be able to melt, bend and shape it with a hot hair dryer. e.g. you can draw a flat rectangle and bend it into a ring. - Depending on your material you might also be able to file, clip, cut or polish the piece. Careful: Some type of filament tends to break.